The Big Replica Debate: Part Two

I'm sure by now that most of you are aware that it was in fact Angelic Pretty representatives that contacted the EGL community seeking help in banning the sale of replica items. Angelic Pretty is now the third brand leader to stand up against illegal replications along with public announcements from Mary Magdalene and Innocent World. You can read their respective announcements to customers regarding this issue here (scroll down):   Angelic Pretty , Mary Magdelene, and Innocent World.

Along with revealing the source of which company contacted the EGL moderators for their cooperation, they have also compiled a verbal and visual guide on what replicas are, which ones are illegal, what makes them illegal, and what you can and can not post about regarding illegal replicas. You can find the complete guide here: A Guide to Illegal Replicas on the EGL Forums

In case you're still uncertain of the difference between a "super replica" (i.e. illegal counterfeit) and a generic replica let's compare and contrast for our own enlightenment!

♡ What is a replica? Aka. a counterfeit. 

Replicas, more commonly referred to as counterfeits, are knock off items of the original. Basically a replica is any item that is a copy or illegal reproduction, in full or in part, of an original artist's work. Usually, a replica is a cheaper, less costly version of its original counterpart that copies all or some parts of an original piece. A counterfeit is synonymous with replica, defined as an imitation or fraudulent copy of the original artist's work. These two words can be used interchangeably since they mean roughly the same thing.

I actually had a great photo for this of a good example of what a "simple" replica looks like---i.e. a cheap imitation of the real thing. In this case, it was a cherry red patent leather little purse I bought when I was traveling in China. Now, this counterfeit was in no way a "super replica," or an exact copy. (If you wanted those, all you had to do was hunt around in Beijing or Shanghai and a lot of the members traveling with us bought "super replicas" of purses from brands like Coco Chanel or Versace.) The one I bought was supposed to be a likeness to Sanrio's Hello Kitty. Instead, there was a fuzzy kind of derp-y looking "Hello Cat." Yes, it actually said hello cat... and since it was cute, and I needed a purse, and it was hilarious, I bought it.

Cheap replicas are not interested in the finer details. Overseas it is fairly common to just grab a brand's logo, make something that sorta kinda looks like what they make, and slap the logo and name on it. It doesn't take a genius to tell from first looks that it's not the real thing. Remember how in Kamikaze Girls, Momoko's dad was all into making "Versach" 100% authentic from France? ... Cheap replicas are kinda like that...

♡ What is a "super replica"and what makes it illegal?

 (Left: example of a "super replica" of Happy Garden) /

(Right: Angelic Pretty's authentic, original Happy Garden JSK)

"Super replicas" are the ones that usually get people talking. These are counterfeits so amazingly accurate down to the very last stitching detail and trim, that it actually takes experts to be able to tell the real ones and the fake ones apart. These counterfeits are supposed to reproduce the real thing so that even the most cautious buyer can't tell that they are a fake. From the fabrics to materials used, to the logos, and even the hang tags and fabric labels... they are all copied down to the very last detail and put together to create a "super replica" or "super copy."

Replicas have been an ongoing problem that I think has come more and more into the lolita public's eye, especially this last year, with a lot of big companies finally speaking out and against illegal reproduction of their designs and especially their fabric prints. It is absolutely mind boggling that entire fabric prints, like Angelic Pretty's Happy Garden (above), can be illegally reproduced and manufactured by overseas companies with such ease. It is in essence stealing the hard work of not only the brand, but their designers, illustrators, employees, and manufacturing companies.

You can tell that the dress on the left by an anonymous overseas company is obviously not the Angelic Pretty original---the entire bodice was changed, the lace is different, and the waist bow itself is smaller. But what makes it a "super replica" is the blatant reproduction of the original artist's work, i.e. the fabric print itself. This can be applied to any dress/skirt/accessory/jewelry that you see being reproduced at a cheaper price by someone overseas of an original print that belongs to its original artists/brands. It simply violates the copyrights held by those individuals and companies.

♡ Why should I care?

Well, this is a question that I can't answer for you. This is going to be a matter of personal opinion that will be interpreted differently by each individual. The most common reason, as we talked about in part one, for the purchase of illegal replicas is: the price. Replicas are cheaper, even if the quality and materials used are sub par to the original.

a. The Legal Reason
Companies like Innocent World and Mary Magdalene have not minced words in their statements released either on their personal websites or else where. They will prosecute overseas companies that are engaging in or otherwise involved in the illegal selling or reproduction of their copyrighted designs and items. Innocent World even said they will take "rigourous measurements" and "punishment" against customers who willingly purchase fake items. Basically, buy at your own risk.

b. The Moral Reason
There's always a lot ruckus about how big lolita brands are just "faceless companies who don't care about customers and hike up the price of their items" yada yada. If you're still certain that's the case, please review part one on the basic concepts of supply and demand.

With that said, put yourself in their shoes for a minute. If you haven't studied fashion, or if you've simply invested timing in making your own loli gear, take a second and think... how long did you labor and sweat, and cry a little bit in trying to make that perfect piece? How many hours did you spend over the sewing machine, breaking needles, and ripping out stitches? And then when you finally made it, when it was finally done... well, how did that feel? Awesome, right? Because you put 100% heart, time, and effort into producing a product.

These companies are actually rather small. Yes, they turn out A LOT of inventory through manufacturers, but all the creative effort into thinking up the designs, creating the original patterns, prints, and sourcing the materials/trims needed to just make ONE dress is a lot of work. When I interned at Anna Sui in the summer of 2011, you would not believe the man hours put into just one single piece, let alone an entire collection. These people work so unbelievably hard to bring you, the lolita princess customer, the decadent frills and thrills that make your pound and your palms sweat.

And then... after all that, after all their intensive laboring and working as a team to create something beautiful... someone just steals it, with no effort or thought at all. That's awful. Truly horrid. Think how you would feel.

c. The Personal Reason
I'm not going to go into this one at length, since you've already had the chance to read it in part one. Lolita is beauty, it is a living, breathing self expression of art, it is heart and soul. If it is the one true love of your life, wouldn't it be so much more rewarding to be patient, to save, and own the real thing? Don't you want to support all those people that work to make that happen?

♡ Well, I make/buy cute items that looks like something brand has, is that illegal? Or do they have copyright on all fluffy cute animals in the world, like unicorns too?  

 (Left: Pink Macaroon's Unicorn Purse/ Right: Angelic Pretty's Unicorn Purse)

The simple answer here is: no. If every company had a copyright on silhouttes, generic shapes, and overall fluffy cuteness then... no one would ever be able to produce anything and I'm fairly certain fashion would cease to exist as we know it.

("Why no, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, you simpy cannot use the popular 18th century 'french gown' sacque silhoutte with all those engageants ruffles! And you've made a ribbon collerate necklace too! :gasp: It looks just like Madame de Pomapdour! How outrageous, that's illegal! :faints dramatically:)

Madame du Pompadour, Francois Boucher

In the above example, you can see, that would just be silly right? After all, the basic silhouettes and frilly decorations used to make up most lolita wear is based on historical fashions. These kinds of things are more of an inspired by, than any dark illegal activity afoot.

Pink Macaroon 's unicorn duffle bag purses for example, are simply a generic plush animal shape. She is not in any way trying to pass of her cuties for that of an AP unicorn purse. She was simply inspired by the item and decided to make her own.

In final words, basically if you see it in regular stores in your outlet mall, like teddy bears with monocles and top hats for example, and you see something similar to that featured in your favorite indie brand, or brand shop... Have no fear! It's ok!

♡ What about other look alike items, are those counterfit? How about "replica" items like Tea Party Shoes, purses, etc?

 (Left: Baby the Stars Shine Bright Heart Purse)

(Right: Bodyline Heart Purse)

As long as the replica item is generic, meaning without special logos or text, or graphic art designs that would suggest it is trying to copy the original artist's work then you're safe. See, this Bodyline bag isn't trying to be anything but a cute heart shaped companion to carry all your junk!

A lot of people love Secret Shop Tea Party Shoes, which I think is okay. Yes, they look similar to items being reproduced but they aren't using copyrighted logos/artwork, and they aren't "super replicas" either. Who wants to stomp around in their gazillion dollar brand shoes unless it's is a clear blue sky day and there is not even an iota of a chance for rain, or other inclimate weather? At least in offbrand shoes you can jump in puddles (ok...maybe not!) or slosh through the snow in those cute lace boots and not worry that you spent so much money on them. (I own one pair of BTSSB heels, and basically I wear them once in a blue moon because I basically break down and cry when I see a scuff mark on their snowy white patent leather. Okay, okay, I'm just pulling your leg again. :3 But I do get upset!)

***AH! This post is getting long..... onwards to PART THREE, Being a Princess on a Budget! : O

*Edit: Forgive me for taking so long to post, the doctor's thing I've come down with an upper respiratory infection, possibly pneumonia related and I haven't been well. ; _ ;

The Big Replica Debate: Lolita Brand vs. Faux Brand: Part One

It's official: EGL Forums has just announced their official ban of posting "illegal counterfeit" items, i.e. replicas. You can read it here: http://egl.livejournal.com/18686404.html

The big replica debate in the Lolita community isn't a new one, and has always been a subject of controversy among the community with arguments over both legal, ethical, and moral sides on the issue. It has gotten more heated over the last year or so with companies like Innocent World and Angelic Pretty stepping into the lime light and publicly chastising customers for the purchase of knockoff brand products. Depending on what side of the line drawn in the sand you're standing on, either argument could be valid.

So while I'm stuck in bed with an icky case of the flu and not able to sew, let's talk about it. Bear in mind, these opinions are solely my own and you're free to agree or disagree as you see fit.

A lot of people don't find anything wrong with replica, whether it's shoes, socks, hand bags, or dresses that look almost exactly the same down to the print. Replicas are even recommended in a lot of articles talking about "lolita on a budget." Many people argue that they simply can't afford Lolita, and would rather spend half the amount of money on something that looks nearly the same for a lot less dollars. Or that brand is "too expensive" or "ridiculously priced," when in all reality it's a basic part of economics: supply and demand. (Sorry if I don't get this completely right, Mom, I haven't taken econ in a long time. : o ) While brands may set the prices, it's the consumer demand that keeps those prices where they are---i.e. there are girls out there willing to save and splurge on a $200 dollar skirt or a $300+ dollar one piece because they want to.

A Dream List: It's just a good idea! <3

 To many people this might seem like a rational reason to buy faux brand. Prices are "too high" and they aren't willing to shell out the money for real brand. Again, why buy the real thing when you can buy it's faux cousin for less? Well, we know the reasons for why, but let's explore why not. Why not buy brand?

To me, fashion is a kind of medium that allows us to really speak to the world, to express our true selves with passion to all those around us. It let's us bare our souls. It speaks to us in different ways, calls to each of us in a way only we can hear. It teases us and taunts us until we become worthy of wearing it, and when we wear it, it teaches us something differently: about ourselves, or the world around us, or even just makes us see things from a different light. Where Lolita is concerned I have never felt so impassioned about one singular thing. To me it's tripping head first in love into one of the most romantic street styles there is, one that brings us back to simpler times, and repaints our skies and surroundings into something magical. Wearing Lolita is special, and sacred, and close to my heart. I want to become worthy of wearing it.

With that being said, I realize that the every day girl (as I am one of them) has a hard time justifying spending what I could pay on monthly car insurance or now a lot of student loan debt... on a single brand item, especially if it's a skirt, jumper skirt, or one piece dress; pieces you really need to fill out a closet. For me, $20 dollars is a lot of money. We grew up always saving and trying to make things work with a single mom taking care of us, and money has never lost its value. While trying to get through my fashion degree in college, I can say I honestly think it gained more importance. Which as it turns out has made me an extremely frugal person, and I can also admit without shame that it is a battle for me to rip that money out of my hands and buy something that means so much to me.

"If it's a dream, you can't put a value on it." Something that special, that important, has more than just extrinsic value to it. You can't put a dollar amount on happiness. If it means that much to you, you are going to save every extra penny you make to save up for that "dream" piece and it is going to mean that much more to you when you've achieved it. BUT that doesn't mean that if I have to pay my bills that I go out and spend that money on a brand new Baby the Stars Shine Bright red riding hood cape. Everything has to have a proper time, and a proper balance. If I feel I can afford to make the expenditure then I will, and if I won't then I won't. If it's something I want, sometimes I ask for help, but that doesn't mean I get it. Otherwise it's a matter of patience, a lot of patience. Life goes on. It will happen when it's supposed to. The things I do I have are through patience, of years of saving and pining over things, or the generosity of gifts.

Me in Emily Temple Cute

 There's really no reason to get upset over not being able to buy something. Yes, it can be frustrating and sometimes cause a lot of heartache. But Lolita is about being opulent, frivolous, and excess. It lives up to that Rococo ideal of indulgence, or pure infatuation with ridiculous fashions. Buying Lolita is not a need, it is a want, pure and simple. You don't need to wear Ballerina Rocking Horse Shoes or a Sugary Carnival dress to continue living. You want to, because it completes a part of you and makes your heart more full.

AP: Sugary Carnival JSK

 Replicas speak a lot about brand loyalty, in my opinion. If you feel the way I do about Lolita, then you want to buy that brand, the whole magical, pastel sparkly experience of owning a 100% authentic thing. You want to support that brand and the people that work their so they can continue to produce things that make your heart skip a beat and your knees buckle into a swoon. It makes earning that particular dream item even more special, even more valuable than just some knock off.

Me in my first brand dress: BTSSB Sweet Fruit a la Mode

 A lot of things like dress silhouettes/patterns/prints aren't protected overseas which is why you see that brands produce a lot of the same kinds of things around the same time, but each brand uses it in their own way while still sticking to their roots. (For example: the re-explosion of perfume bottle prints this year.) Replicas, especially where entire prints like Angelic Pretty's "Sheep Garden" are being reproduced down to the last detail, are disheartening. In the end, buying these nearly "super knockoffs" or "super replicas" don't show your love for Lolita or for the brand that originally produced the print that you fell so madly in love with. It hurts the brand, and devalues not only their original pieces but also the value of their hard work in producing them. There are so many ways to afford things even on a budget and still support your favorite Lolita brand princesses, especially if you're buying second hand and you are just patient!

Example of a "super replica" of AP's Sheep Garden

 There are other girls who say they don't or can't buy replica because brands like Angelic Pretty, Innocent World, or Baby the Stars Shine Bright simply don't fit them because it's either too big or too small. And that, I actually understand even if I don't condone it. To that I say: Lolita brands everywhere, it's time to make a change. Girls regardless of their size should not have to squeeze into a brand dress that is only "one size fits all." They deserve to look just as beautiful, and adorable as anyone else. While Lolita may promote the standard sizes, I think it's time to expand their idea of their perfect target customer, of that "it" girl that the brand revolves around. If you want girls of all shapes and sizes to support the brand then maybe it's time to start producing things that will fit them, offer more options, and allow them a chance to be the frilly princess of their dreams. Yes, it will cost more to produce, but don't you think they're willing to spend that money too? And again, can you put a value on a dream? If you want them to support you, big brand, then why aren't you supporting them?

I have so much more to say, but I think I had better make this a part one and follow up with a part two.

So, what do you think about the big replica debate?

xo