La Farfa: A Plus Size Japanese Fashion Magazine for "Marshmallow Girls"

Inspired by Victoria Suzanne Stella Alice's recent blog post (aka: Parfait Doll), I also wanted to share this amazing article about the first ever Japanese fashion magazine for the every day, plus size gals out there, La Farfa! (You can also read the original article here and here.)

 This magazine is specifically created for the larger, curvy gals that they call "pocchari" or "marshmallow girls" that completely bucks the trend of the ideal "skinny" girl that are plastered on the covers and glossy pages of magazines all over the world. And I think this is a monumental step for the fashion world, absolutely fantastic!

You can flip through any fashion magazine, regardless of its origin, and most of the time you will only see the typical media enhanced images of women who are airbrushed to be thinner, as they try to obtain that "ideal" but unrealistic, and completely impossible version of "perfection." Pushing this idea of the perfect weight, the perfect size, and perfect shape according to the fashion industry and media is something that effects women and girls, of every age, everywhere as this unattainable image of beauty that they can't acheive and results in a lot of negative thinking, especially about one's body. As a culture, this forces a lot of those ideas into women's heads which get internalized, and when they look in the mirror all they see are these "mistakes" about their bodies, which is complete malarkey!

And as a designer, as a woman, I find that absurd. As that one Girl Code meme says:
 

Because the "ideal" is unattainable, a lot of girls find that their natural state of beauty is flawed, imperfect, and therefore makes them "ugly" or "not pretty" or undesirable to women or men. I see so many gorgeous photos of girls on Tumblr and they are actually apologizing to viewers because they "look tired" or their face "looks weird", etc etc, and it absolutely baffles me. And then there are the comments/messages from girls around the world to their internet famous lolita idols asking, "How do I look like you? How do I wear what you wear without looking stupid or ugly because I'm a bigger girl, or a taller girl, or have ____ body shape?"

A lot of my curvy friends always feel like they have to cover up, or clothes have to be designed a certain way to hide parts of their body that they find are too embarrassing to show, regardless if it's lolita or just normal ready to wear. Curvy girls shouldn't have to cater to fashion, fashion should be catering to them as a market. They should be able to wear silhouetted garments that are cute, and flatter their body type and shape.

There's some negative commentary in one of the articles about how the magazine is confusing a cute term with girls that simply should lose weight, or are fat, and should be dismissed altogether. Typical responses to anything that gives positive reinforcement to girls who are simply different, and bucking against the fake "ideal" of society. But I think Seina responded beautifully and with class.

In which, Goto Seina responds cleverly and cheerfully, on an article for JapanCrush (which I will not link because of the ignorant commentary in response to the article:)

"Goto Seina, who is actually introduced in the pages of the magazine as a marshmallow girl, is positive: “Of course there will be different opinions — people who say ‘you’re a pig’ or ‘you’re a fatty’, but for me, [marshmallow girl] makes me really happy”. Goto also said that she would be happy if the term “marshmallow girl” would spread, and she’s happy if she or the magazine help people to know about it."

And that's where La Farfa and Goto Seina come in, and they're like "**** that, we are marshmallow girls and we can rock anything, any time, with any body type!" There has been a huge boost of body positive media floating around the internet this year, but this magazine really tops it! Not only are they putting actual girls on the runway, with real curves, and real bodies, but they are designing clothes that are ADORABLE. Look at Goto Seina rocking that mini skirt, short shorts, and heels, and there are some with thigh highs: she looks flawless! (I also loved that for the fashion show they picked real life readers of the magazine as models! See pics here.)

Particularly in Japan, there is this misconception that plus size girls just shouldn't exist because they need to lose weight to conform with the rest of the society. So I love the idea that La Farfa, a Japanese fashion magazine, is advocating to combat fat shaming, and negative body imagery, with this idea of "marshmallow girls" which gives a softer, cuter, positive ideal for plus size girls. (I mean, shoot, you guys know I'm a sucker for pro-body image/ideas of any variety, so this just delights me to no end as its right up my fashion alley!)

To quote my adorable, curvy friend in response to the article: "I don't know if this means I am squishy and enjoyable or delicious after being toasted over open flame. Either way, I am pleased." (My friend also proposed the idea of "pixie stick girls" for those of us, like me, who are extremely short and petite who fit into nothing because we are so tiny, which made me chuckle. I believe she's on to something there!)

I really applaud La Farfa for giving plus size girls all around the world a magazine that promotes such cute clothing with the idea that girls of all shapes, sizes, and silhouettes are beautiful. I hope this advocates in the industry globally and we start to see more and more magazines created for the natural beauties of the world!

It is personally inspiring to me, and more and more I want to learn how to draft patterns for my curvy princesses so I can be skilled enough to also make them beautiful garments. : 3 I really look forward to seeing more of these kinds of articles, magazines, and posts! I hope you too found it inspiring and positive!

Go, go, go marshmallow girls and girls of all shapes, sizes, and types everywhere!

And in conclusion to quote the Militant Baker from the article, "Things No One Will Tell Fat Girls... So I Will:"

"You are fucking beautiful. I'm saying this with a straight face and seriously meaningful look where I maintain eye contact for an uncomfortable amount of time. I know you don't feel like you fit into the category of gorgeous that our world creates. I know that its hard. I know that it's a daily battle. But fuck their fascist beauty standards. The second you stop looking for a skinny model in your mirror and start looking at YOU... is the second you will start to appreciate what you are. Stop looking for flaws. Stop looking for differences. You are perfect. You are more than enough. You are the best thing that has ever happened to you. And you are fucking beautiful." -Militant Baker

A Guide to Being a Princess... on a Budget!

   
I know... right about now, we're all crying and kicking on the floor, rolling around wailing, "Why isn't my closet as amazing as this one? Why, Rococo gods, why must you torture me?!" Until of course, we sate ourselves with a delicious ice cream snack, and sniffle while browsing through the EGL Comm Sales in search of our dream items.

 Let's face it, whoever owns this closet out there... is probably the most awesome girl ever.  I commend you! Seriously, it must have taken a lot of years, saving, and patience to fill an entire closet (a really cute one at that!!) full of brand dresses, accessories, shoes, and other darling items. I am always impressed (and yes, a little jelly...) when Lolita make wardrobe posts like this because it just blows my mind. It's a lot of dedication!

Hatsune Miku, "World is Mine"

 I know what you're thinking! "But Annika, it can't be done!" Well, that's just simply not true. Ladies, fasten those tiaras on tight, grab a cute strawberry pencil, and let's get started. ^-^

  ♡ I simply can't afford brand, does that not make me a lolita princess? Will other lolis make fun of/look down on me for it? What else can I do?

This one always makes me laugh. There is always this strange... bizarre assumption from outsiders that Lolita are like a pack of brand hungry villains lurking in dark alleys just waiting to trounce upon and otherwise maim new, different, or otherwise cute n' curious girls and boys.

Lolita is an alternative fashion. For the most part, everyone is extremely accepting of everyone else and if you're looking for critiques on you're outfits or what not, then expect constructive criticism, not a trial by fire. If you don't get it quite right, we're not going to make you walk on hot coals or anything! Gracious me.

In the beginning, yes, I think that Lolita used to be extremely elitist. There was a right way, and a wrong way. Black and white. People used to be incredibly rude to newcomers, even a bit snobbish. And yes, there are still a few people out there in the world you will encounter that act like this. Ignore them. But don't think every Loli girl you meet up with is staring you down, or squinting their eyes judging you. Most of these girls are pretty awesome! The community itself has really grown, become more versatile and open, and just better for it.

As for being a "real" lolita princess.... pssh, being a Lolita is about having the heart and guts to wear something so ridiculously frilly that you can fit through the door of your house let alone sit in a car without being a driving hazard. It is about what makes you, you. It's not what it is, but how you wear and how it makes you feel. K? :3

So what else can you do to become a loli princess? Read on!

☆☆Handmade: Become a Seamstress!

It's a lot of fun when you can make you're own things! <3

I know what you're thinking! *o* "But Annika-channn, sewing is too hard! What if I mess up? Or I make something frumpy and I become a pariah of lolita society?!" This is obviously an exaggeration, of course, well maybe. Sewing your own lolita designs is genuinely a daunting experience for a new comer, I know, I've been there. I had to actually attend university to major in fashion design before I even deemed myself a little bit of credit here and there that my designs are well crafted from start to finish, and have come a long way. 

It takes a lot of gumption to create something from scratch, put all your heart into it, and send it out into the world to be viewed, critiqued, and otherwise commented on by the rest of the world. And sometimes the things we make are not always good, even huge couture designers have sent lines out into the public's eye that I'm sure they thought was a disaster or not their best work. So don't let the thought of you making a mistake, or not getting something right stop you.

At the Otakon Lolita Fashion Show, one of the questions someone asked was: How do I start my own line? What are your tips or suggestions for a beginner of someone sewing their own clothes?

Here is the honest truth: You're not going to get everything right. You are going to make mistakes. Lose time, lose patience, and sometimes lose money. There are times where you will get frustrated, and other times be elated. Just have patience---with yourself and your work. The biggest mistake you can make is rush and cut corners. You will always here me say: "Take your time. Do things properly and professionally from start to finish."

If you are going to invest yourself in making a work of art, do it right. That means first: learn to sew, take classes, and get the basic downs. Secondly, learn how to work with patterns, even just premade ones from the store---learn to read them, follow instructions, etc. You can easily alter a premade pattern to fit the proper standards of lolita fashion, at least the basic parts. Thirdly, once you have the basics down then turn the professional side of things---learn how the professionals finish seams, sew hems, and complete an outfit with different stitching techniques/finishes.

If you're looking for patterns that are pre made, but just in the lolita styles then I really suggest you get your hands on some used or new copies of Gothic & Lolita Bible. In almost every magazine (not in their earlier ones) they include a whole set of fold out paper patterns from different big brands. I can't tell you how many dresses, aprons, bonnets, skirts, and other patterns I have from my GLB that I found useful as a beginner! They can be a little difficult to navigate so I recommend learning a little about American patterns first and then try a hand at those.

Don't you want to sew so you can have a tape measure as absurdly cute as these? You know you do.

I know it can be easy to get flustered and feel rushed by time/patience/what have you, but believe me it's not worth it. You know that saying, "God is in the details?" Well, for me I believe that applies to fashion. The things that makes clothing not just something to wear, but a work of art, a beautiful piece worthy of brands or the runway is this: the details. The smallest, most minuet things like a top stitch, french seams, or hand stitching can bring an outfit into the realm of beauty.

If you'd like, dear readers, I can talk more about hand sewing and patterns later if there is something you would like me to teach you. : 3

☆☆ Support Lolita Indie Brands

Don't you want something that's special, one of a kind, and made to order? The great thing about ordering from an indie brand is that you can get all those things! A lot of the times, indie brands will only produce one, or a very very limited amount of designs which means that only one or a handful girls will actually be wearing them. You get something that's handmade, with beautiful quality, heart, and soul put into a singular product or design that you just can't get with big brands. There is no better feeling than buying a one of kind prototype or runway piece and knowing you are the only girl in the world wearing it, and all other princesses are totally jelly!

The other wonderful thing about indie brands (besides the price and quality of course) is the option of getting something custom made for you. Indie brands are better equipped to take what you thought were "awkward measurements" and create a dress, skirt, or anything to fit your body shape, silhouette, and style that will not only accentuate the figure you already have but compliment the parts of you you may be shy about.

So if you're looking to have something one of a kind, handmade to fit you, and fall in between the "Oh, I'm the tiny size of Annika where I'm drowning in fabric and everything is too big" or the "Uh, I actually am a real girl, with real curves and look awesome doing it but everything in brand lolita is too small"...then indie brands are the way to go! ^-^


I am pretty sure that I could go on and on and ON about some of the indie brands that I admire the most, or have seen pop up on my tumblr and wiggle my feet thinking, "Oh that's so cute!"  Here are just a few: 

I Do Declare

Realistic Sweet

Lady Sloth

☆☆ Budget Brands: The Best Bang for Your Buck, while still looking cute!

There are actually A LOT of great brands out there, even if they are deemed "off brand" they are still usually very, very cute and the quality doesn't appear to be shabby or anything like that. If you're looking for some inspiration, or just a place to go window shopping, I highly recommend this tumblr: FYeahOffbrand it is just a visual encyclopedia of all things off brand lolita related that covers all the different styles, accessories, and what not! And the great thing is, a lot of these are still adorable but also affordable! Again, here are just a few budget brands I've seen, heard recommended, etc:

Bodyline

Anna House

Infanta

Fan Plus Friend

There now you have a few things to look at! Trust me, there are a million and half off brands out there that probably you and I don't know about. And if you're ever looking into getting something from one of these brands and aren't sure about the cost, quality of materials, whatever, then I check out the EGL forums. A lot of people have done a lot of reviews about all sorts of off brands and products. So go ahead, take a peek!

♡ What if I really, really am dying from a broken heart for lack of brand? What can I do? 

☆☆Start a Lolita Fund: Saving/Budgeting 

I have had this little "lolita princess" savings jar when I first started college, and though I graduated and there is still not a lot in it, the principal is still the same. (Plus, all the money I save now is technically invisible dollars in what I deem now as the new lolita piggy bank... called Paypal. If only it had a cuter name.) SAVE, SAVE, SAVE!

If you work, sell your creations, or otherwise have an allowance of some kind make it habit to set a little bit aside each time you earn something. Most of my savings for example, go either into my real bank account or get reinvested in my new designs because when I sell something I know most of that money I've already spent, and is not actually mine to spend. And then of course, there's the dreaded responsibilities we all have of various bills, expenditures, or student loans... so take care of those first obviously! : O But do make a budget, put aside a little at a time and before you know it that savings will be just enough to buy your dream item!

☆☆ Buy Second Hand: The Hunt

Let's face it, there are going to be dream dresses out there that when they come out you, a: simply can't afford (case and point: AP's Cat Tea Party ; _ ;) or b: lolita fought tooth and nail over that "it" item to snag the very last one and it is sold out forever! So after you're done weeping a little and lamenting the loss of what was sure to be your true love, dab those tears with your pink hankie, narrow those eyes, and make a pact or promise to yourself. That is your dream dress, and search high and low to the very last corners of the earth (or just the far reaches of the internet) YOU WILL HAVE IT!

I have, and will continue to, search for those epic white whales missing from my wardrobe sometimes for years. You genuinely have to be that patient. Some items are rare, and they may or may not ever show up again. But you have to persist. Search daily, or weekly, on the EGL Comm Sales, keep those eyes peeled in the nooks and crannies of Mbok and Yahoo Japan Auctions! It's out there somewhere, have heart! Put up "WTB" (want to buy) posts in the forums, etc.

And the great thing about second hand, as that with everything in life... the more time goes on, the value or price of these items usually decrease. So sometimes you can get it cheaper than when it came out. And if not, a lot of loli girls are a-okay with payment plans!


☆☆ Know What You Want: Be Selective, Start a Dream List

Here's the hard part, at least from what I hear from some of my other frilly friends: being faithful to your dream list. It can be hard when you see something for sale that is a big brand item and it's going for pennies on the dollar, you know, super cheap. And your heart may quicken, and eyes may covet that pretty print, but do not commit that scandalous love affair! Don't do it!

Stick to the items on your list. The biggest complaint I hear from girls selling off their wardrobe is they didn't do this, and it resulted in them having a completely mix matched wardrobe or just a bunch of stuff they didn't really want. Don't be impulsive just because something is cheap, or the clamor of the new "it" print is so loud. Be true to your princess heart.

♡ Annika, you're a stick figure. Some of us actually have curves, what about us girls? What if we want to be super cute too, AND can afford it but don't fit? Will we just pine after brand forever or buy replica because they don't make plus size? 

You know, the more and more I think about this issue in the lolita community the more mad it makes me! Why DON'T big brands make plus sizes for their curvier customers? Why make them squeeze into a one size fits all label or simply deny them the pleasure of being a princess? I've been thinking about this a lot lately, and I just can't wrap my mind around it honestly. It makes me wonder if it is simply because it would be too expensive for big brands production wise (which would be a polite cop out if you ask me) or if it is merely a cultural issue.

If I had my way, all girls of all shapes and sizes would be lovey dovey cute princesses in their favorite dream items ALL the time! It's just silly, and utterly frustrating as to why this is not the case. 

I've subscribed to a tumblr here for plus size lolita, and I think it is an amazing resource of knowledge and inspiration called Gorgeous Plus Lolita. If you are looking for brand, they have a link to all sorts of big brands/brand dresses that list out the max measurements and styles of dresses that can be worn by curvy girls. And they also have a whole other page dedicated to pretty plus size off brand sites as well.

This girl, right here, my plus size loli idol! SO BEAUTIFUL.

 And to answer your question, you may soon very well have your own brand. I'd like to tell you that there may (hint hint) or may not be a plus size line coming out for Pop Princess this Fall/Winter season, and there may (cough cough) or may not be some pattern production and samples happening..... : > It could or could not be called, Pop Princess + .  ; )




**Ah, well, another long guide for you! : o What else would like to learn more, know about? Drop me a line. I'd love to do more things that you'd like to read about or things I can help with, or even teach you on the creative side of things! <3