Showing posts with label lolita indie brands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lolita indie brands. Show all posts

Friday, January 4, 2013

Lolita Blog Carnival: Favorite Indie Brands!

This week's Lolita Blog Carnival topic I have really been looking forward to, especially considering it revolves around the discovering and sharing our favorite lolita indie brands with you, dear readers! As a lolita indie designer, I am always on the look out for other indie brands that I can support, admire, and otherwise promote in the community. While indie brands may not be as popular or well renowned as their big brand counterparts, I find that they are just as deserving (if not more so) of praise and admiration from the niche following they do have, as well as from the lolita community itself.

Being an indie brand, of any kind really, takes a lot of gumption and an entrepreneurial spirit. Anyone can sew/design/create, but not everyone can do it well or with such beauty that the designer's talent, sweat, tears, and heart show through the finest stitching details that make a piece not just an item of clothing but a work of art. It requires an eye and a skill set that (usually, unless we're talking about natural god given talent like Christian Dior, or Coco Chanel, who had no training) is built upon a solid foundation of training in the field one wants to pursue---i.e. essential knowledge of garment construction, professional training of how a garment is put together/finished, pattern making, draping, tailoring, sewing techniques/finishes. All of these things, while being different parts of a whole, are essential in understanding why a garment isn't working, why something isn't laying correctly or fitting properly, or even seems proportionally off or unbalanced. These skills make a garment beautiful, through each little detail, something amazing is created. It is not just about being able to illustrate pretty pictures, but being able to turn those images into a living piece, breathing life into it from something two dimensional to a garment someone can actually wear. You cannot cut corners, every single stitch, every decision you make needs to be a professional, skilled finish that is done with precision and caution.

What I don't think you realize during your training, however, is that in order to be successful, or really even to get started as an indie brand is that you can't just rely on the creative side of your brain for a company to truly blossom or become established. A lot of indie designers are a one person show, meaning they are the creative spirit: the illustrator/designer/seamstress/pattern maker, the entrepreneur: coming up with the idea, research, putting idea into reality, the accountant: finances/keeping the books/Excel Sheets, the PR and Marketing person: running social medias/blogs/promoting the brand, and the businessman: running the shop/keeping track of investments/etc. In a big company, you have entire divisions or floors set aside for each of these tasks, but when you're an indie brand you literally have to invest your time into all it. There are entire days I have to dedicate to just one of these aspects, like logging in every single piece of fabric/trim/material into Excel sheets with dates/money invested/is it in inventory or not, and then check those against the financial spread sheets that calculate the price of each product---the list goes on and on and on.

Indie designers especially I think have to be strong spirited. Even if you are good at all of those things I mentioned above, it can be difficult to carve out a legitimate space for yourself even in a niche market like lolita. You have to gain a following, clients, repeat customers, and establish yourself as someone that is not only able to create, but someone that does it well, that produces quality work. But above all, I think you have to learn to accept the fact that there will be times when nothing is working, you get frustrated and feel like you won't make it, and everything seems to be going wrong. There are days you will break down, and want to give up. However, you have to learn to endure, and just keeping pursuing your dream if it's what you really want. Again, it takes a strong heart/spirit. In all reality, you have to accept that sometimes you will fail, you will make mistakes that cost you money or customers, etc, or that dream may continue to be a dream and really never take off. You have to be a realistic and accept that failure happens, and learn from it, make different decisions, and have enough strength to keep going. Being a brand/a designer can't just be a hobby if you are truly serious about it. It has to be your life, your first love, your every waking moment, where ideas are buzzing about in your head or even trickling into your dreams.

On that note, here are the indie designers that I truly admire for their skill, their eye, and there strong spirits. As indie designers, I admire them as a fellow designer and also as someone humbled by their great talents and often find myself striving to reach their greatness as mentors.

* Haenuli (Click Here

Though I have not yet had the honor of meeting the designer of this indie brand, I was able to see her garments in person at the last fashion show I participated in over the summer in Baltimore at Otakon's Ultimate Lolita Fashion show! And let me tell you, they are even more stunning in person than they are in the photos. If Haenuli's extremely decadent, elaborate, and exceptionally detailed hand illustrated prints do not blow you away at first glance then I can't say that much will. The intricacies of each print is part of what makes her garments so spectacular. I honestly can't imagine the mass amounts of times it takes her to conceptualize these and turn them into custom printed yardage. But my heavens, is her work beautiful! If the prints aren't your style, then take a closer look at the gorgeous tailoring, cuts, and fits of each her pieces---I believe they could rival some of the nicest big brand names, if not best them. I also adore her extereme attention to the little details---these are what make a garment amazing.

Source: Chokelate Tumblr
Source: Chokelate Tumblr
Credits: Haenuli

*I Do Declare (I.D.D.) (Click Here)

There are truly many things that I adore about Kelsey's work, but first and foremost is the designer herself. If you have ever had the pleasure of meeting her in person, you will know that Kelsey is one of the sweetest girls with such a light hearted spirit, and contagious laugh and smile. Her spirit radiates throughout her, filling the room with a kind of glowing warmth. Her designs are kindred spirits of who she is, ones with sweeping lines of elegance, tailored and classy cuts, and finished with the finest, most elaborate details. If you have had the chance to see IDD in person or on the runway, you too will be filled with a sense of nostalgia, of being swept back in time in a sort of Victorian whirlwind romance, and struck by the fine illustration skills that Kelsey prints on her garments.  I, myself, am not a terribly skilled illustrator but am always star struck by the amount of fine detail that is put into Kelsey's illustrations for her garments.

Credits: I Do Declare
Credits: I Do Declare
Credits: I Do Declare

Discover other neat Lolita indie brands/designers by reading articles from the rest of the LBC! :

 

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

A Guide to Being a Princess... on a Budget!


   
I know... right about now, we're all crying and kicking on the floor, rolling around wailing, "Why isn't my closet as amazing as this one? Why, Rococo gods, why must you torture me?!" Until of course, we sate ourselves with a delicious ice cream snack, and sniffle while browsing through the EGL Comm Sales in search of our dream items.

 Let's face it, whoever owns this closet out there... is probably the most awesome girl ever.  I commend you! Seriously, it must have taken a lot of years, saving, and patience to fill an entire closet (a really cute one at that!!) full of brand dresses, accessories, shoes, and other darling items. I am always impressed (and yes, a little jelly...) when Lolita make wardrobe posts like this because it just blows my mind. It's a lot of dedication!

Hatsune Miku, "World is Mine"
 I know what you're thinking! "But Annika, it can't be done!" Well, that's just simply not true. Ladies, fasten those tiaras on tight, grab a cute strawberry pencil, and let's get started. ^-^

  I simply can't afford brand, does that not make me a lolita princess? Will other lolis make fun of/look down on me for it? What else can I do?

This one always makes me laugh. There is always this strange... bizarre assumption from outsiders that Lolita are like a pack of brand hungry villains lurking in dark alleys just waiting to trounce upon and otherwise maim new, different, or otherwise cute n' curious girls and boys.

Lolita is an alternative fashion. For the most part, everyone is extremely accepting of everyone else and if you're looking for critiques on you're outfits or what not, then expect constructive criticism, not a trial by fire. If you don't get it quite right, we're not going to make you walk on hot coals or anything! Gracious me.

In the beginning, yes, I think that Lolita used to be extremely elitist. There was a right way, and a wrong way. Black and white. People used to be incredibly rude to newcomers, even a bit snobbish. And yes, there are still a few people out there in the world you will encounter that act like this. Ignore them. But don't think every Loli girl you meet up with is staring you down, or squinting their eyes judging you. Most of these girls are pretty awesome! The community itself has really grown, become more versatile and open, and just better for it.

As for being a "real" lolita princess.... pssh, being a Lolita is about having the heart and guts to wear something so ridiculously frilly that you can fit through the door of your house let alone sit in a car without being a driving hazard. It is about what makes you, you. It's not what it is, but how you wear and how it makes you feel. K? :3

So what else can you do to become a loli princess? Read on!

☆☆Handmade: Become a Seamstress!

It's a lot of fun when you can make you're own things! <3
I know what you're thinking! *o* "But Annika-channn, sewing is too hard! What if I mess up? Or I make something frumpy and I become a pariah of lolita society?!" This is obviously an exaggeration, of course, well maybe. Sewing your own lolita designs is genuinely a daunting experience for a new comer, I know, I've been there. I had to actually attend university to major in fashion design before I even deemed myself a little bit of credit here and there that my designs are well crafted from start to finish, and have come a long way. 

It takes a lot of gumption to create something from scratch, put all your heart into it, and send it out into the world to be viewed, critiqued, and otherwise commented on by the rest of the world. And sometimes the things we make are not always good, even huge couture designers have sent lines out into the public's eye that I'm sure they thought was a disaster or not their best work. So don't let the thought of you making a mistake, or not getting something right stop you.

At the Otakon Lolita Fashion Show, one of the questions someone asked was: How do I start my own line? What are your tips or suggestions for a beginner of someone sewing their own clothes?

Here is the honest truth: You're not going to get everything right. You are going to make mistakes. Lose time, lose patience, and sometimes lose money. There are times where you will get frustrated, and other times be elated. Just have patience---with yourself and your work. The biggest mistake you can make is rush and cut corners. You will always here me say: "Take your time. Do things properly and professionally from start to finish."

If you are going to invest yourself in making a work of art, do it right. That means first: learn to sew, take classes, and get the basic downs. Secondly, learn how to work with patterns, even just premade ones from the store---learn to read them, follow instructions, etc. You can easily alter a premade pattern to fit the proper standards of lolita fashion, at least the basic parts. Thirdly, once you have the basics down then turn the professional side of things---learn how the professionals finish seams, sew hems, and complete an outfit with different stitching techniques/finishes.

If you're looking for patterns that are pre made, but just in the lolita styles then I really suggest you get your hands on some used or new copies of Gothic & Lolita Bible. In almost every magazine (not in their earlier ones) they include a whole set of fold out paper patterns from different big brands. I can't tell you how many dresses, aprons, bonnets, skirts, and other patterns I have from my GLB that I found useful as a beginner! They can be a little difficult to navigate so I recommend learning a little about American patterns first and then try a hand at those.


Don't you want to sew so you can have a tape measure as absurdly cute as these? You know you do.
I know it can be easy to get flustered and feel rushed by time/patience/what have you, but believe me it's not worth it. You know that saying, "God is in the details?" Well, for me I believe that applies to fashion. The things that makes clothing not just something to wear, but a work of art, a beautiful piece worthy of brands or the runway is this: the details. The smallest, most minuet things like a top stitch, french seams, or hand stitching can bring an outfit into the realm of beauty.

If you'd like, dear readers, I can talk more about hand sewing and patterns later if there is something you would like me to teach you. : 3

☆☆ Support Lolita Indie Brands

Don't you want something that's special, one of a kind, and made to order? The great thing about ordering from an indie brand is that you can get all those things! A lot of the times, indie brands will only produce one, or a very very limited amount of designs which means that only one or a handful girls will actually be wearing them. You get something that's handmade, with beautiful quality, heart, and soul put into a singular product or design that you just can't get with big brands. There is no better feeling than buying a one of kind prototype or runway piece and knowing you are the only girl in the world wearing it, and all other princesses are totally jelly!

The other wonderful thing about indie brands (besides the price and quality of course) is the option of getting something custom made for you. Indie brands are better equipped to take what you thought were "awkward measurements" and create a dress, skirt, or anything to fit your body shape, silhouette, and style that will not only accentuate the figure you already have but compliment the parts of you you may be shy about.

So if you're looking to have something one of a kind, handmade to fit you, and fall in between the "Oh, I'm the tiny size of Annika where I'm drowning in fabric and everything is too big" or the "Uh, I actually am a real girl, with real curves and look awesome doing it but everything in brand lolita is too small"...then indie brands are the way to go! ^-^


I am pretty sure that I could go on and on and ON about some of the indie brands that I admire the most, or have seen pop up on my tumblr and wiggle my feet thinking, "Oh that's so cute!"  Here are just a few: 

I Do Declare
Realistic Sweet
Lady Sloth
☆☆ Budget Brands: The Best Bang for Your Buck, while still looking cute!

There are actually A LOT of great brands out there, even if they are deemed "off brand" they are still usually very, very cute and the quality doesn't appear to be shabby or anything like that. If you're looking for some inspiration, or just a place to go window shopping, I highly recommend this tumblr: FYeahOffbrand it is just a visual encyclopedia of all things off brand lolita related that covers all the different styles, accessories, and what not! And the great thing is, a lot of these are still adorable but also affordable! Again, here are just a few budget brands I've seen, heard recommended, etc:

Bodyline

Anna House
Infanta
Fan Plus Friend
There now you have a few things to look at! Trust me, there are a million and half off brands out there that probably you and I don't know about. And if you're ever looking into getting something from one of these brands and aren't sure about the cost, quality of materials, whatever, then I check out the EGL forums. A lot of people have done a lot of reviews about all sorts of off brands and products. So go ahead, take a peek!

What if I really, really am dying from a broken heart for lack of brand? What can I do? 

☆☆Start a Lolita Fund: Saving/Budgeting 

I have had this little "lolita princess" savings jar when I first started college, and though I graduated and there is still not a lot in it, the principal is still the same. (Plus, all the money I save now is technically invisible dollars in what I deem now as the new lolita piggy bank... called Paypal. If only it had a cuter name.) SAVE, SAVE, SAVE!

If you work, sell your creations, or otherwise have an allowance of some kind make it habit to set a little bit aside each time you earn something. Most of my savings for example, go either into my real bank account or get reinvested in my new designs because when I sell something I know most of that money I've already spent, and is not actually mine to spend. And then of course, there's the dreaded responsibilities we all have of various bills, expenditures, or student loans... so take care of those first obviously! : O But do make a budget, put aside a little at a time and before you know it that savings will be just enough to buy your dream item!

☆☆ Buy Second Hand: The Hunt

Let's face it, there are going to be dream dresses out there that when they come out you, a: simply can't afford (case and point: AP's Cat Tea Party ; _ ;) or b: lolita fought tooth and nail over that "it" item to snag the very last one and it is sold out forever! So after you're done weeping a little and lamenting the loss of what was sure to be your true love, dab those tears with your pink hankie, narrow those eyes, and make a pact or promise to yourself. That is your dream dress, and search high and low to the very last corners of the earth (or just the far reaches of the internet) YOU WILL HAVE IT!

I have, and will continue to, search for those epic white whales missing from my wardrobe sometimes for years. You genuinely have to be that patient. Some items are rare, and they may or may not ever show up again. But you have to persist. Search daily, or weekly, on the EGL Comm Sales, keep those eyes peeled in the nooks and crannies of Mbok and Yahoo Japan Auctions! It's out there somewhere, have heart! Put up "WTB" (want to buy) posts in the forums, etc.

And the great thing about second hand, as that with everything in life... the more time goes on, the value or price of these items usually decrease. So sometimes you can get it cheaper than when it came out. And if not, a lot of loli girls are a-okay with payment plans!


☆☆ Know What You Want: Be Selective, Start a Dream List

Here's the hard part, at least from what I hear from some of my other frilly friends: being faithful to your dream list. It can be hard when you see something for sale that is a big brand item and it's going for pennies on the dollar, you know, super cheap. And your heart may quicken, and eyes may covet that pretty print, but do not commit that scandalous love affair! Don't do it!

Stick to the items on your list. The biggest complaint I hear from girls selling off their wardrobe is they didn't do this, and it resulted in them having a completely mix matched wardrobe or just a bunch of stuff they didn't really want. Don't be impulsive just because something is cheap, or the clamor of the new "it" print is so loud. Be true to your princess heart.

Annika, you're a stick figure. Some of us actually have curves, what about us girls? What if we want to be super cute too, AND can afford it but don't fit? Will we just pine after brand forever or buy replica because they don't make plus size? 

You know, the more and more I think about this issue in the lolita community the more mad it makes me! Why DON'T big brands make plus sizes for their curvier customers? Why make them squeeze into a one size fits all label or simply deny them the pleasure of being a princess? I've been thinking about this a lot lately, and I just can't wrap my mind around it honestly. It makes me wonder if it is simply because it would be too expensive for big brands production wise (which would be a polite cop out if you ask me) or if it is merely a cultural issue.

If I had my way, all girls of all shapes and sizes would be lovey dovey cute princesses in their favorite dream items ALL the time! It's just silly, and utterly frustrating as to why this is not the case. 

I've subscribed to a tumblr here for plus size lolita, and I think it is an amazing resource of knowledge and inspiration called Gorgeous Plus Lolita. If you are looking for brand, they have a link to all sorts of big brands/brand dresses that list out the max measurements and styles of dresses that can be worn by curvy girls. And they also have a whole other page dedicated to pretty plus size off brand sites as well.

This girl, right here, my plus size loli idol! SO BEAUTIFUL.
 And to answer your question, you may soon very well have your own brand. I'd like to tell you that there may (hint hint) or may not be a plus size line coming out for Pop Princess this Fall/Winter season, and there may (cough cough) or may not be some pattern production and samples happening..... : > It could or could not be called, Pop Princess + .  ; )




**Ah, well, another long guide for you! : o What else would like to learn more, know about? Drop me a line. I'd love to do more things that you'd like to read about or things I can help with, or even teach you on the creative side of things! <3
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